iunia.ro

Tot pe bicicleta, tot pedaland din greu, am ajuns intr-un sat locuit de membri ai poporului Hmong (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hmong_people).

Povestea lor mi se pare absolut fascinanta... Inca dispretuiti si vanati pentru ceva ce parintii sau bunicii lor au facut acum 50 de ani, Hmong in zilele noastre inca nu au "radacini" si cu greu numesc un loc "acasa". In momentul asta sunt aproximativ 4-5 milioane de Hmongs in lume, marea majoritate in China, si cam cateva sute de mii in Laos, Vietnam, Tailanda, SUA, Australia, Canada, Franta si Germania.

La inceput de 1960, in timpul razboiului din Vietnam, CIA a inceput sa recrutateze Hmongs din Laos pentru a lupta de partea SUA in "The Secret War", impotriva vietnamezilor. Asta binenteles ca a atras ura localnicilor, iar in 1975, cand americanii au plecat din Vietnam si Laos a devenit comunista, poporul Hmong a inceput sa fie vanat si persecutat de catre guvernul Lao. Foarte multi dintre ei au fugit in Tailanda, unde au stat pentru multi ani in tabere de refugiati (inca prezente acolo la sfarsit de 2009). Cei ramasi in Laos au fost fie pusi in lagare de reeducare (din care multi dintre ei nu au mai iesit), fie au fugit in munti si au stat ascunsi pentru cateva decade. Cateva mii de etnici Hmong care au fost direct implicati in razboi au reusit sa plece in SUA imediat dupa razboi, unde au primit azil - nu foarte multi insa.

La sfarsit de ani 80 au inceput discutii seriose legate de repatrierea Hmongs in Laos, in special de catre guvernul tailandez. Desigur ca refugiatii nu au fost fericiti despre asta, si chiar dintre cei repatriait multi au reusit sa fuga inapoi in Tailanda. In Decembrie 2009 (cand eram eu in Laos) se pare ca guvernul tailandez a decis sa repartieze fortat toti refugiatii ce inca se mai afla inca acolo.

SUA a negat pentru foarte mult timp existenta "Razboiului Secret", pana cand, sub presiuni politice si de drepturile omului, americanii au recunoscut in 1997 ca intr-adevar au implicat poporul Hmong de partea lor in timpul razboiului din Vietnam. Dupa repetate valuri de emigrare, in prezent cam un sfert de milion de etnici Hmong locuiesc in SUA. Alte mii de refugiati sunt in Australia, Canada si cateva tari Europene,

Satele Hmong din Laos arata cam asa:

Apropos, am fost cu totul socata si deosebit de impresionata de curatenia satelor - asa cum zice taica-miu mereu "Faptul ca esti sarac nu e o scuza sa locuiesti in ca..t".

Pana si vietii sunt foarte disciplinati - sir indian, stang - drept - stang!

Multi dintre cetateni nu au vazut in viata lor o persoana alba, astfel ca in timp ce pedalam prin sate am fost invitati in repetate randuri in casele oamenilor si serviti cu mare drag cu unul dintre putinele lucruri pe care cam toata lumea de acolo si-l permite - un pahar cu apa. La un moment dat, un tata mandru ne-a vazut facand poze prin sat si ne-a chemat la el acasa, unde cu mare mandrie ne-a prezentat intreaga familie (maaaare) si au stat cu totii foarte zambitori si entuziasmati la pozat. Binenteles ca toata comunicarea s-a intamplat exclusiv in limbajul semnelor.

tatal cel mandru // sotia tatalui cel mandru

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